The first thing you notice when you leave the airport upon arrival is the mass of humanity on the roadways. You aren't overwhelmed just by the volume, but the lack of rules and courtesy. Driving in Istanbul makes London, NYC, and D.C. look easy. Almost lazy! When I say they are maniacal drivers here, I am hardly exaggerating. This warm and friendly culture takes on a new persona once it gets behind the wheel! I think traffic cops only care about accidents—anything else goes. Shoulders are more than likely going to be used to create an extra lane; there are only inches between you and all sides, at all times; and there is no such thing as ‘right of way.’
Now, this isn't what you might think of as India crazy. These aren't dirt roads with bicycles, pedestrians, rickshaws, ox and carts, and elephants mixed in with the cars. This is seemingly civilized, paved highways, with every-person-for-themselves drivers and no law enforcement in sight!
Other traffic-related things to note: Lots of carpooling here. I rarely see a vehicle with less than four passengers, oftentimes more. This could be because gas is ~$9/gallon in Istanbul—but more likely it's a cultural, group-outing, family-oriented byproduct. Also, car seats are not required nor used. We see children of all ages happily bouncing around vehicles like we used to do back in the 60s and 70s. It’s not uncommon to see a papa driving with a baby or wee toddler on his lap even. Shocking. Refreshing maybe. But always frightening!
The second big thing you notice here is the call to prayer. No one can prepare a person for how unfamiliar and beautiful it is to be jolted from routine by the muezzin reciting the azan at five prescribed times of the day. The purpose of this call—from every mosque—is the intention to bring to the mind of every believer and non-believer the substance of Islamic belief.
I haven’t read up on this religion. I don’t have a burning desire. But I do find the custom to be gorgeous, soothing, ethereal. And I must also report that it’s unfortunate, human acclimation that I don’t notice it as much now that we’ve been here for several weeks.
I'm attaching a safe link with an example below. I chose this clip mostly for the old photography. Many of you are Muslim friends of mine and will be very familiar! But many more of you probably haven't heard this in person, and I'd ask that you imagine hearing it faintly across your neighborhood—reminding you to keep the faith. xx
Adhan / Azan / A Call to Prayer
—I'm sad this no longer exists; it was beautiful
Call to Prayer ... very interesting and indeed moving.
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